Cloth-finishing



S. L. CLUETT CLOTH FINISHING May 31, 1932.

Filed Feb. 19, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 //v Vf/ we jaw/Wei Z [1 an?" May 31, 1932.

5. L, CLUETT CLOTH FINISHING Filed Feb. 19, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 U Wm NW v W2 .6 Z M w Patented May 31, 1932 UNITE l STATES SANFORD L. CLUETT, OF TROY, NEW YORK CLOTH-FINISHING Application filed February 19, 1931. Serial No. 516,972.

In an application for United States Letters Patent, filed by me on April 18, 1930, Serial No. 445,300, I describe and claim a method of effecting preshrinkage in textile fabrics 5 which, briefly stated, comprises affixing by pressure a textile web in a moistened and therefore plastic condition, at all parts of its surface to a contractible support, then causing the support to contract while the web is m held fixed to it, so that the web also contracts in area, and then, as by heat and drying, setting the web in its thus altered state. The superficial contraction of the web is produced by pressure exerted in directions parallel to its surfaces; since by reason of the confinement of the web by the pressure maintained on its entire surface it can not wrinkle as a Web or sheet in response to the contractile force exerted on it, the response to that force is by the component yarn systems within the web (one or both) of which the web is composed, which assume a more pronounced undulation or crinkle, contracting the web without wrinkling its surface. This may, for the sake of brevity, be termed shrinkage by compression.

Practically, this mode of shrinkage by compression is limited to shrinkage in one of the yarn systems; practically again, in

Fm the warp system, since economically continuous operation mustbe lengthwise of the woven pieces. Apparatus by which shrinkage by compression is effected is exemplified by one endless band of such thickness and structure that on being flexed during its movement successively in one direction and then in the reverse, that side of the band which is first convex and then concavelengthens and m then shortens, so that a moist web of cloth laid upon and attached by pressure to, this convex sector partakes of the contraction of the band surface when the latter passes into the concave sector, when also the confining pressure continues to be exerted on the web.

In its passage through the concave sector, the

web responds to the contractile force by the crinkling'of the warp yarns.

One object of this invention is to efiecta 60 predetermined and measured percentage of web shrinkage by the compression method, in any degree or quantity per yard of fabric within the shrinkage capacity of this machine operating according to said method; another object is to produce preshrinkage in both yarn systems of a web, under control of the process, so asto obtain in the finished material primarily'the desired preshrinkage.

I have invented a machine for effecting shrinkage by compression, which, while it exemplifies the principles of operation described in my said application, Serial No. 445,300, is not therein specifically shown. This machine is the subject matter of an applicati on for United States patent, copendin herewith, serially numbered 516,973, file Feb. 19, 1931, and the inventions and improvements comprised therein are reserved for claim in that application.

In the drawings: I

f Fig. 1 diagrammatically shows a machine of the specific type shown in application, Serial No. 516,973 in association with other apparatus the combination being illustrative of the invention hereinbelow described; and

Fig. 2 is a central vertical sectional view of a part of the apparatus of Fig 1, to a larger scale, illustrating particularly the course of travel ofthe cloth just preceding and during the step of compressive shrinking.

Referring now to Fig. 1 of the drawings,the machine for effecting shrinkage by compression comprises a drum D, which is provided with means for internal heating (not shown), an endless band, F, as of felt, which is car- 85 ried into contact with the drum D over a roll R, then around the major portion of the drum to and over a series of rolls R R Means for maintaining proper tension on the band F, is employed, but not shown in the 90 drawings. The relationship of the intake roll R with the-band F and drum D is significant with regard to the eifectuation of compression-shrinkage of the web of fabric W which is continuously fed in the direction indicated by arrows.

The band F is of considerable thickness, preferably of the order of one-quarter of an inch, and its structure is such (as in the case of a felt or blanket) that it is internally mobile, so that when flexed as in passing over the roll R, its convex surface is elongated. and its concave surface shortened, the neutral zone where neither elongation nor shortening takes place, lying somewhere between the two surfaces, in the body of the band. The roll R is mounted on pivoted or otherwise movable frames such as A, so that the pull of the band F (the drum D being the driving member) will draw the roll R toward the drum D, producing a decided nip, at about the point marked N, upon the band F where, in passing from R to D, its fiexure is reversed.

Preferably as shown in Fig. 2, each pivoted frame A, which sup orts an end of the roll R is pivotally mounte at A to a stationary upright G, the pivot point A being in the present instance above the axis of roll R and offset therefrom toward the axis ofthe drum D. To provide for V61 ticai adjustment of the roll R, journals at each end of the roll are preferably embraced by opposed cupped bearing blocks K and K which are vertically adjustable by means of upper and lower adjusting screws L and L, each turning in bosses in the pivoted frame A.

Means is preferably provided for adjusting the position of the roll R with respect to the drum D, thus to regulate the degree of compressive nipping of the band and web between the roll R and drum D; a preferred form of such means may include a pin V carried by the pivoted roll-carrying frame A and pressed by a spring V against the upright G, thus limiting and cushioning the pivotal movement of the frame A and roll R toward the drum D. A sleeve V threaded into frame A and abutting the end of spring V provides for adjusting the extent to which the frame A may move toward the axis of roll D. For adjustably limiting outward movement of the frame A and roll R away from the drum D, a sleeve T pivotally secured at T to the frame A, may take against a spring T adjustably confined by a nut T 2 on a bolt T which is pivoted to the upright G at T.

In entering the compression-shrinkagemachine, the web W first makes contact with the band F at a line transverse thereof upon the convex, elongated surface of the band. In order to produce close and uniform attachment of the web W to the convex and elongated sector on the roll R, I provide a series of steel ironing blocks, of which one is shown at I, in the drawings, which, curved on their under sides to fit the band F, press the web W against the band. Referrin particularly to Fig. 2, each ironing blodlr I is so shaped as to maintain a firm pressure against the cloth from about the point at which the cloth contacts with the band up to ver close to the point N where the band F an cloth are nipped between the roll R and drum D. The various blocks I which extend across the entire width of the web of cloth,

memes rest independently on the cloth, thus insuring that all parts of the width of cloth are firmly attached to the band F, regardless of slight flexure of the roll R. Referring to Fig. 2, a channel iron 0 supported at each end by one of the frames A, carries coil springs V which pull upward on the end of lips which are integral with the respective ironing blocks I. An adjustable bolt 0, threaded in the lower flange of the channel 9 presses against this same lip I and serves as a fulcrum about which the lip I and block I are urged by the spring V; this serves yieldingly to urge the block I into contact with the cloth on band F.

Within each of the ironing blocks I are preferably provided a plurality of electric resistance units Y which may be of conventional form and which serve to maintain the blocks at a temperature at which their under surfaces are slipper to the moist cloth. The heat from the bloc s I is not applied to the cloth for a sufiicient length of time to dry the cloth, but is effective in furthering the attachment of the cloth to the band F.

The web W is in a moist condition when it enters between the band F and blocks 1, so that its component yarns are soft and their fibre structure capable of internal movement. As the band F passes the point N, the web is transferred from pressure-confinement against the band F by the blocks I to similar confinement between the band and the surface of the drum D, with no appreciable, or more than an instants, release from ressure against the band, so that the reversal of curvature of the band, and the consequent shortening of its web-carrying surface, is accompanied by a corresponding shortening of the moist web, of which the yarn components (Warp in this case) produces take up or shrinkage by undulation 0r crinkle. The shrinkage produced in the web is then set by the heating and drying on the hot drum D, and the web drawn from the band to be rolled or web folded.

If a given length of the convex surface of the band F, upon the roll R be represented by L, and this, upon passing to the drum D contracts to a length L, the linear contraction is expressible by.LL, and the percentage of shrinkage by This represents the maximum compressionshrinkage producible in a web by the means above described.

In the practice of the invention herein described, I can produce enhanced crinkle of weft yarns, and consequent pro-shrinkage of the fabric in its width, by controlled and predetermined straightening of warp yarns, while the fabric is left free to take up widthwise, and thereafter produce a controlled and predetermined take up warpwise, by the compression shrinkage process, hereinabove described. In both these stages of the conditioning process, the compression shrinkage machine functions, in combination and relationship with the other factors of apparatus, thus:

v The travel of the web W is controlled by two input rolls R, R, cared together and frictionally engaging t e web. Fibre-covered or rubber-covered steel rolls willserve this purpose. The drum D of the compression-shrinkage machine is ositively driven by connections S from variable speed gearing C driven by a shaft S, the rolls R, R, are

positively dri en by connections S from variable speed gearing C driven from shaft S. The variable speed gearing C and C may be set to produce any diiferentialtwithin practical limits) of rate of travel of the surface of drum D and the surfaces of rolls R, R. Between the input rolls R, R and the compression-shrinkage machine there are arranged moistening devices M, M which direct water spray or water and steam, upon the web W. A box or chamber B may be employed if desired to enclose the moistening vapors. Emerging from themoistening apparatus, the web WV asses through a system of scrimp bars G. 2 and G and under a roll G of which the effect is to smooth the web so that it will not be wrinkled when it makes contact with the band F.

Let us suppose. for example, .that the fabric, W, as it is delivered to the input controlling rolls R, R, has its warp yarns undulatcd or crinkled to exactly the degree desired in the finally conditioned goods. The gearing C will then be set so that the surface velocities of the rolls R, R and drum D are equal. The length of fabric W, extending at any given instant between the nip of the rolls R, R and the hold between the band F and pressure blocks I, will be firmly and positively held at both ends. The effect of the moisture applied at M. M is to cause the component yarns of the fabric to swell: the warp yarns are anchored at both ends of the space between rolls R. R and R and respond to the moistening by becoming less crinkled; they straighten, and by straightening compel the weft yarns to assume an enhanced crinkle and to take up the fabric weftwise, since in this direction there is no restraint. VVhen'therefore the fabric arrives at the roll R and the band F thereon, the warp yarns have straight- .ened and the weft yarns crinkled, both as compared with their condition when passing between the rolls R, R.

The tensioned web is then affixed to the band F by the ironing blocks I, and preferably without any substantial intervening period of relaxation of the warp tension is subjected to the warpwise compressive shrinkage step hereinabove described. Since the surface velocity of the drum D is (in the case supposed) equal to that of the rolls R, R, the length of cloth W passing a given fixed point, such as the nip point N, in a given time, must be equal to that which passes the mp of the rolls R, R, and, provided the compression-shrinkage capacity of the system represented by the band F, roll R and drum D be adequate thereto, the warp yarns of the fabric W are compelled to reassume precisely the same crinkle that they had in the fabric as it passed throu h the rolls R, R.

Two variable actors aflect the weftwisc take up, or preshrinkage, effected in a system such as above described, namely, quantity of moisture applied to and absorbed by, the fibrous yarns, which compose the fabric, and the time allowed for absorbed moisture to produce its effect on the individual yarns. The means for applying moisture to the fabric may be made adjustable, as by provision of a series of spraying pipes, M, M.

part or all of which .may be used, according to the requirements of the operators.

The time allowed for applied moisture to produce its effect depends on the velocity of travel of the web W and the distance between the input rate controlling means (R. R) and the output rate controlling means (D, F. R). Therefore, in designing and proportioning apparatus of the character described. it will be Well after determining the practical maximum velocity of fabric movement to provide suflicient distance between input controls and output controls, to afford time for the least bibulous fabric to absorb a maximum of moisture, to provide also adequate moistening means to supply the predictable maximum of moisture absorption by a moving fabric. The size and the practical maximum of temperature of the drum D will be determined with regard to the cloth drying requirements. and should be designed with a view to the probable extreme case of such requirements.

It is to be noted that while in a simple ironing operation it is usually desirable that the cloth be moistened at as short a distance from the ironing drum as is practicable, the practice of my process to shrink both weftwise and warpwise usually involves rendering the cloth moist and plastic at a considerable distance from the point at which it is ironed. For instance, the web cloth between input rolls R, R and output roll R has a considerable length and when rendered moist and plastic by the devices M is free to shrink weftwise without interference. Particularly in the event that a high degree of weft shrinkage is to be obtained, by tensioning the web W between the input and output rolls. it is desirable that a considerable length of the web be substantially unconfined in a weftwise direction, say 20 feet.

If desired, one or more of the bars G G or G, for example bars G and G, may have their cloth contacting surfaces cut into threads which diverge from the middle of the bar and tend to spread the passing web of cloth, thus checking weftwise shrinking at a oint in the progress of the web, at which sullicient weftwise shrinkage has taken place. Advantageously, the bar G may be ad ustable vertically to vary the extent of contact of the web and the bars and roll G"'.

Since the compression-shrinkage imposed on a fabric by apparatus of which the drum, band, and drying roll system (3, F, D) is an example will always be represented by the formula hereinabove explained, it follows that the least warp crinkle of a fabric treated by the apparatus as a whole and finally delivered from the band F will appear when the adjustments of input rate, output rate, fabric moistening and tension warpwise in the space between the input rate controlling means and the output rate controlling means are such that the warp yarns of the fabric are straight and without crinkle when the fabric enters the compression-shrinkage apparatus.

Imposition of these conditions will produce maximum crinkle of the weft yarns, and therefore maximum shrinkage of the fabric weftwise. In this extreme case, the differential drive-connections C and C will be so adjusted to give the. surface of the drum D its practical maximum excess velocity over that of the surfaces of the input controlling rolls R, R. i

It follows also, that the maximum producible warp crinkle in a fabric conditioned and delivered from the band F of the compression-shrinkage factors of the apparatus will ensue from an adjustment of the surface speed differential between D and rolls R, R, which, with a. given moisture absorption and time for the spontaneous response thereto by the fabric yarns, delivers the fabric to the compression-shinkage system under no appreciable tension. In this extreme, or limiting case, the weftwise preshrinkage will be that produced by the spontaneous take up and crinkle of the weft yarns. The differential drive-connections C and C will be set so that the surface velocity of the drum D will be less than that of the input controlling rolls R, R, by a differential which fully and exactly compensates for the spontaneous and unrestrained shrinkage and crinkle of the warp yarns produced by absorption of moisture.

Any desired balance, or ratio, between weft and war preshrinkage between the two extremes a ove mentioned, can be accurately produced and uniformly maintained, by adjustment of the differential drive-connection C.

If the warpwise shrinkage capacity of the the compression-shrinkage expressed by the terms L-L' L be less than that required to impose complete preshrinkage on a fabric of which the warp yarns are straight when the fabric enters the compression-shrinkage apparatus, and further warp-shrinkage is desired, the fabric may be remoistened after delivery from the compression-shrinkage apparatus and subjected to similar compression treatment in another similar apparatus, to which the fabric will be conducted in a relaxed condition, under no appreciable tension. Or, the fabric may be retreated in the same or similar apparatus, which will be so adjusted as to drivedifferential to produce the increased warpwise shrinkage without attaining the weftwise shrinkage already imposed.

Preferably the drive shaft S is connected, as by suitable connections indicated at S, to the web-advancing instrumentalities of a tentering machine T. Thus the advance of the web through the stages of weft-shrinkage and warp-compression will be in timed relation to the advance of the web in the tentering operation. By adjusting both differential drive connections G and C, both the input controlling device-constituted of rolls R, R, and the wa p-compressing and web-iron,- ing device, m y be caused to operate at the proper speeds, to accommodate the cloth at the particular rate at which it is delivered by the tentering machine. By further adjusting differential drive connection C, the balance or ratio between weft and warp preshrinkage can be obtained. In relation to the tentering machine, the above described mechanism constitutes a valuable ironing and finishing adjunct capable of giving the web just before ironing a final lengthwise straightenmg under conditions of warp tension and weft relaxation (which improves the alignment and texture of the tentered goods) without producing in the finished ironed goods a corresponding amount of warp elongation.

Furthermore, conditions of warp and weft crinkle or straightness in the goods leaving the tentering machine can as described above, be modified in easily variable degrees just before the goods are ironed and without sacrificing the uniformity in web width obtained by tentering. By modifying a tentering and the pressure exerted by the input controlling rolls R, R, the friction ironing by the blocks I (which preferably are heated) and the jgressure ironing by the felt F and hot drum the smoothing friction of the bars and rolls at G, and the sequence of moistening and swelling of the yarns and the heat drying of the fabric, all serve-to improve the appearance and finish of the fabric.

Furthermore, the described sequence of operations, producing internal rearrangements of warp and weft systems in the fabric while the fabric is held under positive control, improves the fabric by squaring its mesh and correcting such distortions and de-' -partures from true yarn alignment, as may have been produced in the loom or in subsequent manipulations of the woven goods. Stripes, checks, or other figures in the goods are brought into their correct and intended contours. Thus, aside from the values of the above described process and apparatus in regard to controlled and predetermined shrinkage of fabric, the treatment imposed on fabric is incidentally or collaterally bene-' ficial from other points of view of the cloth finisher and his customers. With this aspect of the process under consideration, a sequence of operations further extended than that hereinabove described constitutes a fuller and preferred embodiment of the invention, to wit Before introducing the web of fabric into the apparatus, such as illustrated in the J drawings hereto annexed, let it be subjected to the warpwise shrinking process described in my United States Patent No. 1,7 34,897 dated November 5, 1929, and as effected by a tentering machine in which my improvements are incorporated. The tentering machine T of Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings is then preferably the machine described and claimed in my United States Patent No. 1,734,896, also dated November 5, 1929 In such a machine the cloth web is preshrunkwarpwise, the weft yarns being tensely straightened while the warp yarns are allowed to relax and become highly crinkled. The operation of initially pre-' shrinking the cloth warpwise in this way is of advantage in this instance in that it pre-.

sents the cloth in a predeterminable and controllable condition of warp crinkle, in uniform width, and with its weft or filling yarns true and everywhere at right angles to the in the compressive shrinking device will be additive with. respect to that imparted in the tentering machine. The cloth will, in-- termediate these steps acquire the desired weft crinkle between the rolls R, R, and R.

The warpwise preshrunken fabric received by the rolls R, R from the tentering operation will already have undergone a weavesquaring process; in its passage through the apparatus herein illustrated the warp yarns will straighten to some extent, (more or less according to the adjustment of the differential drive-connections G and C, as hereinabove explained) and the weft yarns, by spontaneous response to the moistening, and also, if desired, by tension applied to the warp yarns, will assume a crinkle which had previously been straightened in the tentering machine. Then the warp yarns will be crinkled by the operation of the compressionshrinkage apparatus. The fabric finally delivered, set in its condition of both warp and weft preshrinkage, will be as nearly perfect in such alignment as is possible, and will have taken'on a body-softness and surface finish of higher and better quality than is producible by any. treatment heretofore known to me.

Woolen fabrics are very diversein their characteristics, variations almost from yard to yard are discernible in the same piece of fabric; the same warp and weft yarns, in plain weave produce a fabric which behaves quite differently under the treatment herein described, from one in basket, twill, or diagonal weave, consequently the wide range of adjustability provided by the herein described apparatus and its susceptibilit also to delicate alterations in adjustment uring operation and as variations in the fabric under observation demand it, adapts this apparatus to the production of practically any desired preshrinkage effect on any fabric in the large category of goods which pass- III Certain woven fabrics, for instance twills and loosely woven printed fabrics such as percales, exhibitthe property of shrinking to some extent each of a plurality of times they are laundered, the ultimate shrinkage attained after several repeated launderings being greater (in one or both dimensions) than can be forestalled by preshrinkage by usual water treatment.

I prefer, before undertaking to finish a fabric, to subject a sample of the fabric to repeated launderings such as the fabric will encounter in use, noting the shrunken size of the fabric after each laundering and to continue these successive launderings until no appreciable shrinkage is obtained by further laundering. The total shrinkage thus obtained may be called the ultimate laundry shrinkage. Having ascertained this quantity as nearly as possible, for both dimensions of the cloth sample, I then impart this degree of preshrinkage to the cloth of which the sample wastaken, preferably by the method and apparatus herein described which are competent to impart such preshrinkage, equal to or closely approximating the ultimate laundry shrinkage of a previously unshrunken sample. The wide range of adj ustabillty of my improved apparatus enables such preshrinkage to be imparted in the right amount both to wefts and warps of the cloth. A finished preshrunken cloth of this kind may actually stretch in its first laundering, (its preshrinkage being greater than the amount of potential shrinkage of the first laundering) then in the next laundering, or in each of several succeeding launderings, the cloth will shrink until it returns to its original preshrunken dimensions. Thereafter, the cloth will neither shrink nor stretch to any substantial extent, as a result of laundering. Thus a garment made of such cloth, preshrunken accurately with relation to its predetermined ultimate laundry shrinkage in both dimensions will at no time be less than its original size, may somewhat exceed its original size in one or both dimensions upon being laundered once or a few times depending on the fiber and weave, and will, after a sufiicient number of launderings, return to its original size. If accuracy of ultimate size is desired in only one dimension, such measured and predetermined preshrinkage may be practiced with relation only to that one dimension of the cloth. It is however preferable that both yarn constituents of the fabric shall have, upon completion of the preshrinkage operation, a crinkle at least approximately as great as the degree of crinkle imposed by the weaving operation, as distinguished from a marked and abnormal straightness of yarn. Thus it is assured that while ine yarn'constituent of the cloth grows and then shrinks to its preshrunken length, the other yarn constituent will not experience the spontaneous shrinkage of straight yarn.

A specific instance of preshrinking to accommodate ultimate laundry shrinkage may be my preferred treatment of a uniform twill of which the maximum laundry shrinkage may be determined by test at 2.25 inches per yard in warpwise dimension and 0.55 inches per yard in weftwise dimension after four launderings. The warpwire shrinkage may here occur in increments in successive launderings, and the maximum weftwise shrinkage may be attained in the first laundering. The cloth would be preshrunken preferably by my easily regulable process to these same extents, namely 2.25 inches per yard in warp and 0.55 inches per yard in weft. In the first laundering to which the preshrunken cloth is subjected, it will grow in warpwise dimension, thus oilsetting further shrinkage in this dimension. Whether or not the cloths weft crinkle is thus accurately adjusted to compensate for the expected shrinka e, it will in any event be found preferable, %as suggested above) to avoid abnormal straightness of wefts in the finished preshrunken cloth; my improved process is particularly advantageous in this connection in permitting a final warp crinkling step without sacrifice of weft crinkle.

It should be understood that the present disclosure is for the purpose of illustration only and that this invention includes all modifications and equivalents which fall within the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. Method of treating textile webs comprising stretching one yarn component of the web, in one dimension while allowing take-up of the other yarn component and shrinkage of the web in the other dimension, then causing take-up of the previously stretched yarn component by compression exerted on the web parallel with its surface, and setting the web in its altered state.

2. Method of treating textile webs comprising stretching one yarn component of the web, in one dimension while allowing take-up of the other yarn component and shrinkage of the web in the other dimension, confining the web against a support contractible in its superficial extent, causing the support to contract while the web is confined thereagainst, and setting the web in its altered state.

3. Method of treating textile webs comprising rendering the web plastic, conveying the web in the direction of its warp components under tension, while permitting the web to take up in the dimension of its weft yarns, confining the web while yet under tension against a support alterable in its superficial extent, then diminishing the superficial extent of the support and the associated web warpwise of the web, to cause take-up of the warp components of the web, and setting the web in its diminished superficies.

. 4. Method of treating textile webs comprising rendering the web plastic, inducing warpwise tension in the web sufficient to cause take-up of weft components of the web and enhance their crinkle; then, without any substantial intervening period of relaxation of such warp tension, subjecting the web to compressive forces perpendicular to the web thus to retain the weft crinkle, and to compressive forces parallel to the web, thus to cause warp take-up, and setting the web in its altered state.

5. Cloth treating apparatus comprising in combination means for stretching the warp yarns of a plastic woven web to cause the weft yarns to crinkle, means for causing takeup of the warp yarns by compression exerted on the web parallel with its surface, and means for setting the Web in its altered state.

6. Woven textile web non-shrinkable in both dimensions, having its original trade finish substantially unimpaired and characterized by the smoothness and absence of wrinkles which results from subjecting the web serially to substantially maximum preshrinking of the weft yarns and then of the warp yarns without substantial coincidence in time of shrinking of both systems of yarns.

7 Shrunken woven textile web, substantially HOD-Shrinkable in both dimensions by laundering, said web having both its weft and its warp yarns crinkled substantially to a maximum extent, and having its original trade finish substantially unimpaired.

8. Preshrunk woven textile web, having its weft yarns crinkled by warp tension while the web is in a plastic state, and having a crinkle in its warp yarns subsequently applied while the web is held by pressure against wrinkling.

9. Shrunken woven web having substantially equally shrunken dimensions of both warp and weft including wefts crinkled by warp tension while the web is in a plastic state, said warps also lying in a crinkled state as the result of shrinkage warpwise of the web by warp crinkling.

10. Shrunken woven web having its orig inal finish substantially unimpaired and having substantially equally shrunken dimensions of both warp and weft including wefts crinkled by warp tension while the web is in a plastic state, the warps of the web also lying in a crinkled state as the result of shrinkage warpwise of the web by warp crinkling. the web being set by drying to main tain these relations of warp and weft.

l1. Cloth treating apparatus comprising means for moving a plastic woven web in a warpwise direction under warp tension suflicient to enhance the crinkle of the weft components of the web in combination with means for shortening the superficial extent of successive increments of the web in its warpwise dimension without disturbing the enhanced crinkle of the weft components, and means for setting the web in its altered state.

12. Cloth treating apparatus for combined weft and warp shrinkage of a plasticwoven web comprising instrumentalities acting on the web to advance the web in a warpwise direction and simultaneously to apply undulations to the warp, in combination with means for maintaining inthe web approachin" said instrumentalities a warp tension effective to produce weft shrinkage by orinklinga 13. Cloth treating apparatus for combined weft and warp shrinkage of a plastic woven web comprising instrumentalities acting on the web to advance the web in a warpwise direction and simultaneously to apply undulations to the warp, in combination with means for maintaining in the web approaching said instrumentalities a tension effective to produce weft shrinkage by crinkling, the apparatus including a moistening device acting 011 the part of the web under tension.

14. Cloth treating apparatus for combined weft and warp shrinkage comprising instrumentalities acting on the web to advance the web in a warpwise direction and simultaneouslyto apply undulations to the warp .components of the web, web-feeding means gripping the web in'rear of said instrumentalities, means for maintaining a state of moisture in the web between said instrumentalities and said feeding means whereby the weft components of the .web tend to shrink, and means for establishing a speed differential between said instrumentalities and said feeding means.

15. Cloth treating apparatus including means for shrinking a textile web in its warpwise dimension by compression of its warps, in combination with means for feeding the web to said shrinking means under such a degree of warp tension as to secure a preliminary straightening of the warps.

16. Cloth treating apparatus comprising means for advancing a web of cloth in a warpwise direction, means for selectively shrinking the web during its progress, first in one dimension and then in the other dimension, and means for imparting a variable warpwise tension to the portion of the cloth undergoing one of said shrinkin operations so as to vary the ratio of shrin age in one dimension with respect to the shrinkage in the other dimension.

17. Cloth treating apparatus including web-feeding and-warp compressing devices acting successively upon an advancing web, the web-feeding device being adapted to tension the web approaching the warp compressing device to shrink the cloth in width,

means for driving said devices, and means for varying the ratio between the speeds of said devices.

18. Cloth treating apparatus including at contractible support, means for aflixing a web to the support, means for moving the support and web and for simultaneously.

causing the support and Web to contract 3 warpwise of the web, means for rendering the webplastic before afiixation to the support, input feeding means effective to tension the web approaching said support to shrink the cloth in width, and means for establishing a speed differential between the rate of feeding of web by said input feeding means and the rate of travel of said contractible support.

19. Cloth treating apparatus comprising means for compressively shrinking an advancing web in its warp dimension, means for maintainin tension in the web approaching said shrin ing means, means for maintaining the web moist so that it can yield to said tension by straightening of its warps preliminary to war shrinking, and means or varying the tenslon in said web, thereby to vary the degree of preliminary warp straightening, and accordingly the degree of ultimate warp shrinkage.

20. Cloth treating apparatus comprising means for stretching a web of cloth in the direction of its wefts, means operable thereafter to shrink the web in a. weftwise dimension by stretching the web warpwise while maintaining it relaxed weftwise, thus straightening the warp yarns and enhancing the crinkle of its weft yarns, means for causing take-up of the warp yarns by compression exerted on the web parallel with its surface, and means for setting the web in its altered state.

21'. Cloth treating apparatus comprising in combination a tentering machine operable on a traveling web to bring the web to a desired uniform width, means operable on the web leaving the tentering machine to shrink the web selectively in its weftwise dimension, means for causing take-up of the warp yarns of the web by compression exerted on the web parallel with its surface, and means for setting the web in its state of weft and warp shrinkage.

22. Method of treating a woven Web of cloth which comprises equalizing the width of the web by stretching, then allowing the weft yarns to relax and crinkle by the action of absorbed moisture, thereafter, while the weft yarns are in a crinkled state, causing warp take-up by subjecting the web to contractile pressure exerted in directions parallel with the web surfaces, and setting the web in the thus improved condition.

Method of treating textile woven webs, characterized by first stretching the web weftwise while maintaining it relaxed warpwise, thus straightening the weft yarn and producing take-up warpwise by enhanced crinkle of the yarp yarns, then stretching the web warpwise'while maintaining it relaxed weftwise,

thus restraightening the warp yarns and producing take-up weftwise by crinkle of the weft yarns, thereafter subjecting the web to contractile pressure exerted in directions parallel with the web surfaces and with the 1/7 warp yarns, thus producing warp yarn crinkle while conserving the take-up produced by the weft arn crinkle, and setting the web in the thus imposed condition.

24. Apparatus for treating textile woven webs, including means for stretching the web weftwise while maintaining it relaxed warpwise, means 0 Enable on the thus treated web to cause crin 1e of the weft yarns with attendant straightening of the warp yarns, means operable on the web after such treatment for subjecting the web to contractile pressure exerted in directions parallel with the web surfaces and with the warp yarns, and means for setting the web in the thus imposed conditions of weft and warp shrinkage.

25. Method of treating textile woven webs, characterized by' first stretching the web weftwise while maintaining it relaxed warpwise, thus straightening the weft yarns and producing take-up warpwise by enhanced crinkle of the warp yarns, then conveying the web in a warpwise direction in a moist plastic state under a minimum of warp tension while permitting the weft yarns to take up, thereafter subjecting the web to contractile pressure exerted in directions parallel with the web surfaces and with the warp yarns, thus producing warp yarn crinkle while conserving the take-up produced by the Weft yarn crinkle, and setting the web in the thus imposed condition.

26. Textile fabric substantially nonshrinkable in both directions such as results from a mechanical treatment of woven fabric whose constituent yarns possess substantially the relative crinkle resulting from the weaving operation, such treatment comprising tensioning the material warpwise while maintaining it relaxed weftwise until the weft yarns assume substantially a maximum crinkle, the warp yarns becoming substantially straight, and thereafter compressively squeezing the warp yarns to substantially a maximum crinkle while the weft yarns substantially retain their previously assumed crinkle.

- 27. Textile fabric .substantially nonshrinkable in both directions, such as results from a mechanical treatment of woven fabric whose constituent yarns possess substantially the relative crinkle resulting from the weaving operation, such treatment comprising tensioning the material weftwise while allowing it substantial freedom of movement warpwise until the warp yarns assume substantially maximum crinkle and the weft yarns become substantially straight, then tensionin the material warpwise while fillOWlIlgdt substantial freedom of movement weftwise until the weft arns assume substantially maximum c e and the warp yarns become substantiall straight, then compressively contracting t e material warpwise until the war yarns regain substantial- 1y maximum crin tle while the weft yarns retain the crinkle previousl assumed.

Signed by me at Troy, Y., U. S. A., this 14th day of Feb., 1931.

SANFORD L. CLUETT. 

